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Star Shooters

Climbing the North and South Six Shooter Towers, Canyonlands, Utah

By Jared Ogden

Found in: | Climbing | Rock Climbing | Where to Go |

GETTING STARTED

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Getting There: Access the towers off U.S Highway 191 by turning west onto Utah 211, about an hour south of Moab or 20 minutes north of Monticello. Drive west on Utah 211 for about 12 miles until you reach Newspaper Rock. Continue another 12 miles past Newspaper Rock on Utah 211 to the Davis Canyon Road where you'll see a National Park sign. Turn south onto the road. The road soon turns to 4WD. For the North tower, park about a mile down the road and hike southwest up a valley that eventually leads to a climber's trail up the talus cone. The top of the trail can be treacherous with loose rock - use caution. For the South tower, continue down the Davis Canyon Road and into the wash. Drive until you are at a point southeast of the tower. Hike over the obvious rocky shoulder to flatter ground - avoid stepping on cryptobiotic soil - to the bottom of a long scree and talus slope. Scramble up the slope to the base of the climb; there should be a climber's trail with cairns to mark the way. When To Go: Usually the spring and fall give the best temps for climbing. Summer temperatures can be scorching. Take lots of water whenever you go. Gear: Take two ropes and a double set of cams, stoppers, and bravado.

Just east of the Canyonlands National Park boundary at the confluence of Indian and Lavender creeks in southeast Utah, two massive sandstone spires tower above the desert, pointing skyward like six-shooter pistols aiming for clouds. Colossal in form and scale, the North and South Six Shooter towers have been fashioned by thousands of years of erosion to resemble the Wild West's most consummate icon, the gun. The Shooters are formed of Windgate sandstone, remnants of a massive mesa that once dominated the landscape above Davis Canyon. Today these distinguished towers dominate the skyline, standing tall on the horizon driving in from Indian Creek toward the park.

To the vertically inclined, these pillars represent the ultimate climbing challenge and, if climbed successfully, an unsurpassed sense of accomplishment. Both Shooters offer incredible scenery and excellent climbing opportunities for nearly all abilities. Whether your mission is to tackle the classic Lightning Bolt Cracks on North Six Shooter - one of the most sought after routes in the desert - or the easier routes of the South, you're in line for an excellent desert adventure.

The North Six Shooter was first climbed in 1962 by Huntley Ingles, Rick Horn and Steve Komito and since then many routes have been added. The Lightning Bolt Cracks route (5.11b) on the east face follows finger cracks to wide chimneys to the summit - put up in 1979 by legendary climbers Ed Webster and Pete Williams. Another less popular route that is a joy to climb is the Shadows route put up in 1978 by Ken Trout and Scott Vischer. This three-pitch route follows a series of off-width and chimney cracks to the west side of the tower. There are several other routes to choose and can be done at 5.10, A0 or C1. Descend the summit using two two-rope rappels.

The South Six Shooter is the smaller of the two and a great first tower for neophytes. It's more broken and blocky than the North, and offers a wild twin summit. South Six Shooter was first climbed in 1969 by Bill Roos, Burnham Arndt and Denver Collins. The South Face route follows three pitches of 5.6 that weave past an ancient pictograph high on a wall void of any holds or ledges, causing pause for how the artist got it there so many centuries past. There are several other route choices, ranging in difficulty of 5.9 to 5.11, like the South Face direct or South Face right, both 5.9, or Charlie's Route, a short 5.11 finger crack, all offering stiffer options to the summit. Descent is by two two-rope rappels.

The Six Shooters are special places with incredible scenery, climbing, art and history - and await your visit.