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Four Corners Grand Slam

Highpointing The Southwest

By Shannon Davis

Found in: | Outside | Climbing | Mountaineering |

It sounds like something from the breakfast menu at the Denny's in Santa Fe, but the Four Corners Grand Slam has nothing to do with a green chili omelet, bacon and a short stack. And it doesn't have anything to do with the Arizona Diamondbacks or the Colorado Rockies, either. The Four Corners Grand Slam is your introduction to highpointing - climbing and hiking to the highest point in each state - in the incredible Four Corners states.

As of 2004, 131 people have successfully made it to the highest natural feature in all 50 states. I stipulate natural feature because there are many taller man-made structures than the highpoints in the pancake states of Florida and Delaware, for example (345-foot Britton Hill and 448-foot Ebright Azimuth, respectively). Highpointing takes tons of time, considerable travel cash and the luck to bag all 50. In fact, far more people have summited Everest - 2,249 at the end of the 2004 season - than have highpointed all 50 states. There are even more astronauts currently working in the U.S.'s space program - 152 - than there are 50-state summiteers.

That is what makes it one of the coolest hobbies I can think of. Four Corners highpointing is a great way to see this region from above. I've bagged 46 - the Four Corners states being 43-46. I intend to finish the rest this summer, but I'll be back to these peaks over and over. Three are moderate to strenuous day hikes, and one is a two- to three-day backpack. And all four offer unparalleled scenery and the satisfaction of knowing that no one is higher than you.

Arizona: Mt. Humphreys (12,633 ft)

Arizona is way more than endless stretches of sand and mesquite with a motionless cowboy watching the horizon. In a state known for its deserts and daily record-breaking high temperatures, it's hard to imagine 12,000-foot peaks and the possibility of snow every day of the year, but that's what you've got at the San Francisco Peaks where lies Mt. Humphreys, the highest point in a state better known for its big ditch.

Mt. Humphreys is one of four main peaks on San Francisco Mountain, an ancient volcano once said to stand taller than 15,000 feet. Several million years ago, a huge eruption just like the blast that knocked 1,000 feet off Mount St. Helens, uncapped San Francisco, downsizing it closer to what we know today. Humphreys stands shoulder to ear with the second highest point in Arizona, the 12,365-foot Agassiz Peak, and is named after General Andrew Atkinson Humphreys who served in the Union army during the Civil War and was the chief of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers from 1866 to 1879.

The Humphreys Trail is the standard approach up what is the easiest of the Four Corners highpoints (I shared the summit with a Jack Russell terrier last summer). The 4.5-mile trail starts at the north end of the parking area and heads under the Hart Prairie ski lift toward the aspen and pines where it winds up the southern slope toward the Humphreys-Agassiz saddle. It's very well marked and obvious until it reaches the 11,750-foot saddle. These last 1 1/2 miles are steeper and more difficult, and there are wooden posts on the last 3/4 of a mile to help mark the trail. The trail ascends three false summits before reaching the true summit.

June to September is the primo hiking season, although the summit register has plenty descriptions of strong winds and weather. As with any high peak, 'tis the rule to be on the way down by noon, which if you're in shape is no problem even if you start as late as 8 a.m. But don't take the generally picture-perfect Flagstaff conditions for granted. Mid-day storms are the norm in the San Francisco Peaks, and it could snow any day of the year. Plan for a 4- to 6-hour day and 3,200 feet of elevation gain.

Getting There

From Flagstaff, head approximately seven miles north on Humphreys Ave. (which will eventually become Arizona 181) to the well-signed turn off to the Snowbowl Ski Area. This 7.4-mile drive will take you to the Humphreys Trail parking area. The trailhead is on the north side.

In Town

GEAR - Babbit's Backcountry Outfitters, 12 East Aspen Ave, Flagstaff, AZ 86001; (928) 774-4775. Babbitt's is located in downtown Flag (on a corner with two other gear shops in close proximity) and is stocked with everything from climbing and backpacking gear to gear just for chilling. Babbitt's also has the best selection of local guidebooks and maps.

FOOD AND DRINK - Flagstaff Brewing Company 16 East, Route 66, Flagstaff, AZ 86001; (928) 773-1442, www.flagbrew.com. The Flagstaff Brewing Co. is the coolest place in town to get a beer and a bite. It's full of locals who come for the popular Bubbaganouj IPA. It's got a low-key atmosphere, and if you come for dinner, you may end up staying for almost nightly live music.

New Mexico: Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft)

Wheeler Peak stands watch over the spectacular (and fun to say) Sangre De Cristo range, a collection of peaks stretching 250 miles from Santa Fe, NM, to Salida, Colo. It also marks the southern end of the Rocky Mountains. Wheeler Peak is similar to Mt. Humphreys in that it rises out of the desert creating an alpine pocket in an otherwise sun-scorched region. It's in the 19,150-acre Wheeler Peak Wilderness and is named for U.S. Army Major George M. Wheeler who in 1871 was chosen to lead a survey of the territory west of the 100th meridian. Take a look at your globe and see what a crazy undertaking that was (it's nearly half of the U.S.).

There are two main routes to the summit, the Bull-of-the-Woods Trail, and the Williams Lake Trail. The Bull-of-the-Woods trail is 16 miles round trip and is a well-marked Class 1 trail. The Williams Lake Trail is approximately seven miles round trip and is a steep Class 2 trail, with the final 1,000 feet of climbing on a scree slope. The summit is marked by a permanent plaque and summit register.

I took the latter route and spent time on my hike up (2,960 feet of elevation gain) with a herd of Bighorn sheep wary of my presence and several lazy marmots sunning themselves and looking for handouts. I shared the summit with a Swedish couple who were touring the Southwest highpoint by highpoint. We also shared a quick skinny dip in Williams Lake on the descent, a distinct advantage to this route, although the bank was quite muddy.

The Wheeler Peak Wilderness begs you to stay longer and backpack for a few days, and the surrounding towns have the same quality, each saying, "Hey man, no rush. Come relax." On your way back to Taos, stop in Arroyo Seco. I stayed at the Abominable Snowmonster Hostel rather than in Taos. It was far cheaper and made a great basecamp for exploring the area. Hostels are a great place for local beta and internet access, too.

Getting There:

From Taos, drive four miles north on US 64 to NM 150. Drive for 15 miles passing through the small town of Arroyo Seco and eventually reaching the Taos Ski Valley ski area. Stay left at the fork, passing an RV area and heading up the dirt Twining Road until you reach a hikers parking lot near The Bavarian and The Phoenix Grill.

In Town

GEAR - Taos Mountain Outfitters, 114 South Plaza, Taos, NM 87571; (505) 758-9292, www.taosmountainoutfitters.com. Toas Mountain Outfitters is a small shop with general climbing and camping gear and a staff who gives reliable beta.

FOOD AND DRINK - Eske's Brew Pub, �?½ block off Toas Plaza, (505) 758-1517, www.eskesbrewpub.com. Taos's only brewpub is a gathering place for hikers, skiers, climbers and the tattooed and artsy. Burritoes, burgers, good beers brewed onsite and plenty of options for veggies. Live music, too. Essentially the most perfect place you could imagine sitting around after hiking Wheeler Peak.

Colorado: Mt. Elbert (14,433 ft)

Mt. Elbert is the tallest of the Four Corners highpoints and is, in fact, the third tallest state highpoint and the 11th tallest peak in North America. It's deserving of respect, but consider it a gentle giant. There's relatively moderate terrain all the way to the summit, gaining 4,550 feet along the way, but it's not too much longer or more difficult to hike than Wheeler or Humphreys.

I'd heard that one of my best friends from highschool was living in Breckenridge (a few hours from Mt. Elbert), and I needed a hiking partner. So, before hiking Elbert, named for Samual Hitt Elbert, state Supreme Court justice and territory governor under presidents Lincoln and Grant, I set out on a different sort of journey. I went hunting for my buddy whom I'd not seen in years while in a town I'd never been to. I figured he would be a cook somewhere; he always seemed to find work as a cook. I walked the main drag just once, striking up conversation about my search with someone who turned out to be his housemate. I hiked Elbert two days later with my lost buddy. Seek and yee shall find.

The two most popular and easiest routes to the summit are the South Mt. Elbert Trail and the North Mt. Elbert Trail (4.5 and 6.2 miles to the summit, respectively). These paths to the summit are busy in the summer (the main season is June to September) and carry the tracks of all sorts of hikers, from the badass to the fatass. Get an early start.

I took the North Mt. Elbert Trail for its proximity to several campgrounds; the closest one is just across the road from the trailhead. I met a group of three guys who had been out on a three-day backpack in the area and returned to find their Jeep broken into with camping gear and, worse in their opinion, Snickers bars stolen. (I talked to the Sheriff Deputy when he arrived and found out that that trailhead had seen a string of break-ins.) I shared some GORP and jerky with the hikers and got some info about the hike to the summit: a straight-forward ascent in the heart of what so many Coloradoans proudly call "God's Country." I can't argue with that. From the top, you can see the Collegiates and Mt. Massive, among so many others that all one can think is "so many fourteeners, so little time."

Getting There

North Mt. Elbert Trailhead: From Leadville, drive 4 miles south on U.S. 24 to CO 300. Turn right onto County Road 300 and drive .8 miles. Then turn left onto CO 11. Drive south 1.2 miles and turn right at the signed intersection for Halfmoon Creek. Drive just over 5 miles, passing Halfmoon Creek Campground and the Elbert Creek Campground until reaching the signed North Mt. Elbert Trailhead. It is also an access point for the Colorado/Continental Divide trail.

In Town

GEAR - Bill's Sport Shop Inc., 225 Harrison Ave., Leadville, CO 80461, (719) 486-0739. Part sporting goods store and part gear shop, this place has batteries, energy bars, an extra layer and other day-hike essentials.

FOOD and DRINK - Wild Bill's, 200 Harrison Ave., Leadville, CO 80461, (719) 486-0533. I'm a hardcore burger and beer man, and Wild Bill's has 11 killer burgers to choose from. Alas, no beer, though.

Utah: King's Peak (13,528 ft)

On my hike into the High Uintas Wilderness area where lies King's Peak, I met a runner on his way out who had bagged the peak and ran out the same day. A strong performance, sure, but as I was standing atop King's two days later, I couldn't imagine just zipping up to the summit and back and not spending time, savoring every minute of the High Uintas.

Second to the Brooks Range in Alaska, the Uintas are the most prominent east/west range in the United States. The range is huge, but most backpackers focus on the High Uintas in the central portion of the range. Glaciers have created large alpine basins filled with hundreds of lakes, surrounded by awesome jagged peaks, the tallest of which, of course, is King's, named for Clarence King, the first director of the United States Geological Survey. (Note to those of you wishing to have a mountain named after you: judging by the names of these four highpoints, it looks like being a backcountry surveyor helps.)

The main route to King's Peak is 28 miles round trip, and is usually done as a three-day backpack starting from Henry's Fork Campground, roughly 40 miles from Mountain View, Wyo., and at least a two-hour drive from Salt Lake City. Hike generally south on Henry's Fork Trail. Most highpointers hike into Dollar Lake and take it easy for the afternoon, then hit King's on day two by the Highline Trail and Gunsight and Anderson Pass and hike out on day three.

When I was there in August, there were cowboys and a really talented Australian cattle dog moving sheep through Gunsight Pass and down into the basin where we were camped near Dollar Lake. From far away the huge flock sounded like motocross bikes. Soon, though, we had to seek highground on a huge boulder as the meadow we were enjoying the sunset from became a sea of sheep, easily 500 strong.

After ascending to Gunsight Pass, you can save some time by hugging the slope to the right. The side trail is obvious and leads to a nearly level boulder field, hooking up again later with the Highline Trail and saving about a mile each way. The final push to the summit is a Class 2 lunch burner. July to September is the big backpacking season, but I keep dreaming of visiting again in winter.

Getting There

I'm not going to lie. It gets a little tricky. From Mountain View, Wyo., take Wyoming 410 7.1 miles toward Roberston, Wyo., until you reach a sharp right turn in the road. A dirt road, Uinta County Road 283, will go straight ahead where the paved road turns right. Take 283, which becomes Forest Road 072 for 12.4 miles until you reach an intersection with Forest Road 017. Turn left here and follow 017 toward Henry's Fork Campground. 017 will end after 7 miles and will become Forest Road 077. This road will take you the rest of the way (about 4 miles) to the Henry's Fork Campground and the Henry's Fork Trailhead.

In Town

FOOD and DRINK - The Pony Express, 21 7th St., Mountain View, WY 82939; (307) 782-6782. I asked these guys what their address was, and they weren't sure. Seriously. I had to look it up in the phone book. It's on the main drag in Mountain View, Wyo., and you can't miss it. It's one of only three places to eat, and the locals without exception say it's the best.

GEAR - Most minor gear needs can be met in the grocery/hardware store across the street from The Pony Express.

Shannon Davis is a freelance writer who lives and works at The Orme School in Mayer, Ariz. He will be highpointing in Wyoming, Montana, California, and Nevada this summer.