Email this article
Hard Rock Pebble Party
The Walls Won't Come Crumbling Down
Getting Started
GUIDEBOOK:
"Is this solid?" It's a common question from a rock climber who lays his hands on steep cobblestone for the first time. Upon learning to trust the amassed pebble-work and how solid it really is, the next remark is often along the lines of, "this is awesome!"
The conglomerate rock at the El Rito climbing area gives the appearance of a vertical streambed; smooth cobblestones of all shapes and sizes cemented within a mortar of solid metamorphic rock, bonded together on a steep face. Varying angles - from slabs to super steep - and holds of all shapes define conglomerate climbing: pockets, edges, slopers, and pinches. The most common holds are formed where cobbles have pulled out, making for great pocket pulling.
The cliffs of El Rito are tucked away in the rolling hills of Ponderosa in the Carson National Forest, in northern New Mexico. Located about 50 miles north of Santa Fe, and just outside the little village of El Rito, the El Rito climbing area is some of the best conglomerate climbing in the Four Corners' region. Cliffs up to 300 feet high are located here, with both sport and traditional climbing at two distinct areas.
A high concentration of routes can be found at the El Rito Sport Crags. As the name suggests, this area is host to many sport routes - routes that have bolts as the main source of protection rather than relying on traditional gear. The majority of routes at the Sport Crags tend to be moderate in difficulty, in the 5.10 range or harder and about 50 feet in length. Routes 5.10 and under are available but few in number. The El Rito Trad Cliffs are where routes of up to 300 feet in length can be found - routes that require protection with traditional gear. Difficulty ratings of 5.6 to 5.8 are common at the Trad Cliffs, providing an ideal area to learn traditional gear placements and multi-pitch climbing technique.
A great place to experience many routes in a close proximity, with good opportunity for a full-on pump fest, are the Rad and Gnar walls at the Sport Crags. These two walls are stacked with bolted routes up to 50 feet in length. The Gnar Wall has perfect warm-up climbs, with five routes in the 5.9 + to 5.10 range, from nearly vertical to gently overhanging. A bit stiffer and overhanging, the Rad Wall has eight routes from 5.10 to 5.12. Both walls are actually on huge, multi-faced boulders with a narrow slot five feet wide separating them, with routes inside the "slot canyon."
Also at the Sport Crags, the Beer Block has many hard, short, and steep power routes with names such as "It's time to Drink", "B.Y.O.B.", and "Tecate Two-Step". Some of the hardest routes of El Rito are at the Beer Block. The longest routes at the Sport Crags are at the Pirates Wall, with climbs up to 12 bolts and 90 feet in length. "Walk the Plank" is a classic, 80-foot line with the crux near the top, with some big, loose cobbles to add to the pucker.
The rock at El Rito is generally solid and high quality, but the buckets are a result of cobblestones pulling out. It happens! Belayers beware - don't stand directly beneath the climber. A helmet, both for belaying and climbing, is a good idea.
Most of the climbing at El Rito faces southwest and sits in the sun for most of the day. However, with so many boulders, little canyons, and crags, climbing in the shade can be found. At an elevation of around 7,800 feet, El Rito is a spring, summer, and fall crag, although summer temperatures can get scorching.
Wind down a great day of climbing at a restaurant in the village of El Rito, the El Farolito. New Mexican food of the very finest is served up in this little adobe restaurant, located on Main Street. Green chile, enchiladas, rellenos, tacos, and green chile cheeseburgers are on the menu. Its green chile is a three-time winner of the New Mexico chili cook-off.
Dan Steaves lives in the playgrounds of the Southwest and works in Durango, Colo., in media sales for Inside/Outside Southwest magazine.
Post a comment
www.insideoutsidemag.com doesn't necessarily condone the comments here, nor does it review every post.
Read our full policy.