Email this article
Hello Show Low
At the heart of adventure in Arizona's White Mountains
SHOW LOW PLAQUE AND STATUE
“show low and you win the ranch”
Not many real towns have a history like Show Low's. A couple of guys, C.E. Cooley and Marion Clark, both of them ranchers, decided that, just like in modern day parodies of the Wild West that, um, this here town was not big enough for the both of them. Instead of pacing it off at sundown, though, the two decided to play a peaceful game of cards with simple rules. Winner stays; loser leaves. And according to legend, Clark said, "If you can show low, you win." Cooley turned up his card, a deuce of clubs, and said, "show low it is." Cooley stayed in the area that became Show Low, and Clark moved to what is now the neighboring town of Pinetop. The legend does not continue on to describe what game Clark was playing when Pinetop was named.
Show Low received national attention in June of 2002 when a 462,614-acre wildfire, the largest in Arizona state history, threatened to smoke it off the map. Show Low obviously survived, but the Rodeo-Chediski fire took down 462 structures and cost 153 million bucks to put out. This huge blaze began as two smaller fires - one that started on the rodeo grounds northeast of Cibeque and another that started near Chedeski Peak when a lost hiker started a signal fire. The word "arson" is regularly used by locals.
Like so many small towns in the Four Corners today, Show Low's economy is based on the industries of tourism, retirement, commercial business and a super small amount of manufacturing. The town has a certain charm and along with Pinetop has plenty of laid back diversions for all types of outdoors enthusiasts ranging from those who mountain bike and tip microbrews to those who go muddin' and kick back Coors Light. But just between you and me, there isn't a whole lot to the town of Show Low. As you drive through (and inevitably past) Show Low, you'll definitely wonder, "Was that it? Did we miss a turn?" But it's not so much what's in Show Low that makes it worth the drive but what's around Show Low.
And what's around Show Low is more than two million acres of mountain country on the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests, large tracks of charred trees still serving as a visual reminder of Smokey The Bear's main message. This region is a huge playground, housing some of the best biking and hiking in the state as well as eight cold water lakes, Arizona's largest ski resort and year-round relief from the desert heat with temperatures averaging about 30 degrees cooler than Phoenix and the desert valleys. Show Low today is a cool mountain getaway and the adventure hub of the White Mountains.
Hike
The highest point in the White Mountains is Mount Baldy, and it's an awesome, moderate 13.5 mile out-n-back that anybody in town can point you toward, and if you're up for an overnighter, it's a great backpacking destination too, although it's quite popular and has one other small caveat: the top of Mount Baldy is on Reservation lands and is officially off-limits. The trail ends 0.25 miles from the top. The view is still sweet, the journey still enjoyable. But for the peak bagger in you, there's another great day hike you should pack up for on the next highest peak, Escudilla.
Escudilla Mountain is considered the third highest mountain in Arizona and like the others, was once volcanic. There are actually eleven higher named summits in the state, but eight of them are considered sub peaks of either Humphrey's Peak in Flagstaff or Mount Baldy. So Escudilla gets third place on a technicality. Escudilla means "bowl," in Spanish. In 1984 the Escudilla Wilderness Area was created, encompassing 5,200 acres of Escudilla Mountain and the surrounding area of the Apache National Forest. Aldo Leopold worked for the forest service in this area and really dug on Escudilla, writing in his classic A Sand County Almanac that "Life in Arizona was bounded underfoot by grama grass, overhead by sky and on the horizon by Escudilla." It's a real presence on the horizon.
The Escudilla National Recreation Trail (#308) is used by most hikers while the steeper Government Trail (#119) receives less traffic since it slightly longer with fewer views of the surrounding lowlands. You can combine them to form a loop. An out-n-back on the Escudilla Trail takes about four hours and has about 1,200 feet of elevation gain. You'll hike through old-growth stands of Engelmann Spruce, Douglas Fir and White Fir as well as some grassy meadows. There's a fire tower up there that' the highest in Arizona. It's not on the true summit, but a climb up it reveals sweet views into New Mexico and the Mogollon Rim. Mount Baldy's to the west. The tower is occupied daily and permission should be acquired from the lookout before ascending the steps. Permission won't be granted if it's raining.
From Springerville, about 30 minutes east of Show Low, head south on US 180/191. After 20.5 miles turn east on Forest Road 56. Continue about 4.6 miles to the Terry Flat Road. Stay left and drive another half mile to a signed trailhead.
Bike
Indian Springs and West Fork Trails
Locals love these trails and, according to the guys at Cyclemania bike shop, they rival the better-known rides in Flagstaff. The rides are actually pretty easy, but they rank high on fun factor. The trails are hard-pack and have camping nearby at the Rainbow Campground at Big Lake.
Indian Springs Trail is a 7.5-mile loop. The altitude (9000') can be wheeze inducing, but overall the loop is pretty chill. There's some nice single-track through the trees and a long section along the Old Apache Railroad Grade. A 0.5-mile side trail takes you to Big Lake Lookout and an awesome view of the lake. The elevation change is only about 500' over the course of the loop.
The West Fork Trail is a 3.5-mile out-and-back spur off the Indian Springs Trail. It's a jewel of the area. The trail heads toward the West Fork of the Black River with striking views of the canyon, and it goes all the way down to the river. This smoothie trail disintegrates into a pretty technical, hillside-clinging, rocky and switchbacking decline into the canyon. Epic!
They're about an hour from Show Low. Get to AZ 273 and take it to Big Lake. Turn onto the Big Lake turn off, and then continue for .07 files on FR249 to FR249E. Turn right on FR249E and go 0.5 miles to the trailhead on left. Go clockwise to climb the gentle grade of the old railroad bed, or counter-clockwise to take advantage of the extended downhillish of the same.
Climb
When you head out to Big Lake for the aforementioned ride, take your new 5.10 Galileos, your chalk bag, 12 draws and a 60m rope too. There's one main wall near Big Lake Lookout (take the obvious climber trail) that has a couple dozen sport routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.12. There are now climbing shops in the area, though, so don't forget anything. A dip in the lake makes for a great end to a day of white-knuckle mountain biking and a quick pull-down session at the crag.
Ski
Sunrise Park Resort is Arizona's largest ski resort and is owned and operated by the White Mountain Apache Tribe. Sunrise has three mountains with 65 runs, cross-country ski trails, a terrain park and a kid's hill too. There's 2,300 feet of vert and an annual snowfall of 250 to 300 inches. The lifts are just a few years old and can haul over 15,000 people up the mountain per hour. It had some of the best snow in the country last year on over 2,000 skiable acres. The elevation helps. The base of the mountain is at 9, 300, and the summit is at 11,200. Snowboarders especially enjoy the sound system at Pumphouse Snowboard Park. Info: (928) 735-7669; sunriseskipark.com
Fish
Folks come from all over the world to fish White Mountain streams for the Apache trout, the state fish of Arizona. The Apache Trout is one of two fish native to the state, the other being the Gila trout. The Apache trout, though, enjoys wider fame than the Gila. It's a total comeback story for Arizona.
A hundred years ago or so, Apache trout swam in about 600 miles of streams in the White Mountains. But by the late 1960s, this native fish's run was reduced to about 30 miles of stream and became one of the first species to be listed under the Endangered Species Conservation Act of 1969. When the endangered Species Act of 1973 replaced the '69 policy, Apache trout were among the first fish species protected. In 1975, representatives from the White Mountain Apache Game and Fish Department, the Arizona Game and Fish Department, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the U.S. Forest Service formed the Apache Trout Recovery Team whose goal was to establish self-sustaining populations of Apache.
The recovery effort brought together public and private organizations like few issues can. State and federal governments worked closely with Trout Unlimited, Arizona Flycasters, Desert Flycasters, Anglers United, Mothers for Clean Water, and The Sierra Club to keep the fish from extinction. Now, due to strong preservation efforts, they are routinely stocked for anglers to catch in various streams and lakes in the White Mountains on the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest and the Fort Apache Indian Reservation. They are no longer considered endangered but are still considered threatened. Arizona is the only place in the world where Apache trout are found.
Their body color is yellowish-gold with the tip of the head being a dark olive. Its fins are white-tipped, and there is usually n orange to red cutthroat mark. Two small black spots on either side of pupil, give appearance of black stripe through eye. The world record Apache trout was 5 lbs. 3 oz. caught at Christmas Tree Lake in 1991. The word in the area is that you should fish for them just about the same way you would a rainbow trout. Use smaller hooks. Artificial flies work the best; green, brown and black in a Peacock Lady pattern. The meat is said to be firm, flaky and fabulous. But how 'bout some catch and release, huh? These fish have been through enough.
Gear
Cycle Mania, 100 N. White Mountain Road, Ste 101, (928) 537-8812
Cyclemania is the only bike shop in the area and has the patch kit, spare tube and ClifShot you'll want to pick up. Since the only full-on gear shop in the area, a Popular Outfitters, closed down, Cyclemania has also started to stock some day hiking supplies, so this is a good stop for those purposes too. Good beta here too.
Skier's Edge-Paradise Creek Anglers, 560 White Mountain Blvd, Lakeside, AZ 85929, (928) 367-6200, skiersedgepinetop.com
It's a bit of weird combo, really, to have half a shop dedicated to snowsports and the other half dedicated to fishing. But not in this area where those two leisure pursuits are huge. They've got everything from boats to bindings and offer rentals as well.
Eats
High In The Pines Delicatessen and Coffee House, 1191 East Hall, (928) 537-1453
For a cup of good coffee (not gas station swill), this is absolutely the place. High in the Pines also has breakfast and lunch. A visit to Show Low wouldn't be complete without a stop here for some fuel after your morning mountain bike ride. On the menu are 15 different sandwiches that can be had on one of seven types of bread baked fresh daily. There are also salads and charcuterie boards and a super-nice laid-back vibe.
Fiesta Mexicana, 350 E. Deuce Of Clubs, (928) 532-3424
I've been eating Mexican food in Arizona for 16 years. Heck, I've eaten Mexican food in about 40 of the 50 states and Mexico too. And I've never had Mexican food as good as at Fiesta Mexicana on Duece of Clubs Street in Show Low. I had no idea it could be this good. Carne Asada that melts like butter; salsa that burns likes true love. There are so many options on the menu, you'll have to order a margarita on the rocks and think about it. Tons of restaurants in Arizona claim to have the best maragarita in the state, and how can one know, really, unless he's actually tried them all? But I'm willing to bet, even in a town who's name came from a gamble, that Fiesta Mexicana at the very least has the biggest margarita-they come in fishbowl sized glasses that require two-hand attention. This place is heaven, I swear.
Sleep
Fool Hollow Lake Bed & Breakfast, foolhollow.com; (888) 339-1144
The approach to the Fool Hollow Lake Bed & Breakfast will make you wonder if you've been duped, like someone on a snipe hunt. Is there really a B&B out here? But soon enough your headlights will shine upon a simple wooden sign in the tall grass that says plainly "Bed & Breakfast." Turn right at the sign and left up the drive, then just follow your nose. Doris Tyler will have made some brownies or chocolate chip cookies for your arrival, and her husband Ross will be right there to shake your hand on your way in. There are three rooms available: the Patriotic Room (they're red-blooded Americans), the Lakeview Suite and the Courtyard Suite. The Courtyard Suite is the most secluded and has its own deck, kitchen and private entrance. The Tylers cook up a breakfast so good it'll put your own mother to shame - a perfect way to kick off your day's adventure.
Shannon Davis says he completed one of his life's goals on this assignment -finding the best Margarita in the Southwest. The writer from Mayer, Ariz., is now committed to checking again just to be sure.
Post a comment
www.insideoutsidemag.com doesn't necessarily condone the comments here, nor does it review every post.
Read our full policy.