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Wolf Creek Pass Ice

Gold Stars and Free Water!

story and photos by Jeff Widen

Found in: | Outside | Climbing | Ice Climbing |

Any southwest Coloradoan can tell you that if you want to get anywhere else in Colorado, you're gonna be driving passes. Ice climbers know that the passes to the north ? Coal Bank, Molas, Red Mountain, Lizard Head ? are gateways to some of the state's most coveted frozen waterfalls. Legendary climbs such as Stairway to Heaven, Horsetail Falls, and the Ames Ice Hose are but a pass or two away for the climber itching to sink tools.
Less celebrated by ice climbers are the areas surrounding Wolf Creek Pass. While not as extensive as the ice around Telluride or Ouray, there are a solid bunch of routes that form consistently every year, and a whole lot more that come in less frequently. Because these routes are not as popular or accessible as, say, Ouray's Box Canyon or Silverton's Second Gully, they rarely if ever attract a crowd.
One winter, for some fun before attending a Super Bowl party in South Fork, I spent the day solo climbing near the Pass at one of the best beginner ice climbing areas I'd ever seen. This area, at the base of the east side of the Pass, unfortunately forms up inconsistently. But when it does, the amount of ice is amazing, so it's worth keeping an eye on.
Two of the most reliable climbs in the area are Tasty Freeze and Treasure Falls (photos facing page). When traveling northeast on Highway 160 out of Pagosa Springs, Tasty Freeze is visible to the west as you cross the last meadow area before starting up Wolf Creek Pass. Viewed across the valley, it's an unmistakable 3-pitch ribbon of ice that had always captured my attention on my drives to Denver. Knowing nothing about the route, a friend and I set off on skis at a late hour to try our tools at climbing it. At midnight, we collapsed back in the car, after a long ski in and out, and after climbing 500 feet of killer ice with a WI 4 crux. The route has an adventurous, alpine feel to it, and no fixed anchors to make the descent convenient - rappel from trees to the north - which of course, we had to find in the dark.
The other route that glared at me is Treasure Falls, which is close to the road opposite Tasty Freeze, and right before the highway begins its climb to the Pass. It's easy to find, a tourist attraction with road signs, parking lot and bathroom! The climb itself? Stunning layers of ice cast in drapes and cauliflowers - an enticing formation. As a clear day progresses, the waterfall catches more sun, making it more beautiful but sketchier to climb, so start early. When I climbed it, the sun was full-on; the water inside the ice was gushing and the ice audibly creaking. Near the top, the ice was so thin I could see the tips of my tools hanging in air through the ice! Treasure Falls is done in one long pitch of WI 4+ or 5 depending on conditions, and is truly one of the jewels of the Wolf Creek Pass area.
There are many other routes, some of which form consistently, such as Sheep's Clothing (WI3-4) and Alpha Male (WI5).A good reference to the area is Colorado Ice Climber's Guide, by Cameron Burns (1997, Chockstone Press).One area that is often "in" condition is located 200 feet north of the highway where you drive southwest from the small rest area at the bottom of the first hill on the east side of the pass - how's that for accurate directions?! Another detail, just keep your eyes peeled - you'll see it through the trees.
Several other ice climbs show their faces but only occasionally, which makes Wolf Creek Pass a great area for exploration. Climb the reliable ones first, then sit tight. Wolf Creek Pass is close enough to check on, and it's definitely worth the wait!

Jeff Widen has climbed for more than 30 years throughout the United States, as well as Alaska, Europe, Canada and South America. From rock and ice climbing to alpine and big wall endevours, he enjoys not only the climbing, but photographing his adventures as well. His principal work involves protection of public lands as wilderness. While photography is a side job, his images have appeared in such publications as Climbing, Rock and Ice, Patagonia, numerous environmental publications, and of course, Inside/Outside Southwest magazine.