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Climbing Arizona's Sacred Mountain

story and photography by Bruce Grubbs

Found in: | Outside | Climbing | Mountaineering |

Getting Started

Resources:
• Coconino National Forest, Peaks Ranger District, 5075 N Highway 89, Flagstaff, AZ 86004; (928) 526-0866, www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/
• Kachina Peaks Avalanche Center, www.kachinapeaks.org

Books & Maps:
• Humphreys Peak topographic map, US Geologic Survey
• Hiking Northern Arizona, Bruce Grubbs, Globe Pequot Press

Rising over a mile above the 7,000-foot Coconino Plateau, the San Francisco Peaks reach 12,633 feet at Humphreys Peak and are Arizona's tallest mountains. Officially called San Francisco Mountain on government maps, locals have long called this isolated group of summits the San Francisco Peaks, or just the "Peaks" for short.
Snowcapped for more than half the year, the graceful Peaks are visible for more than 100 miles to the east and north, and are sacred to most of the Native American tribes living in the Four Corners region. The Peaks are the remnant of a volcano that once reached 16,000 feet or more, before the summit exploded around a million years ago. Glaciers later carved the mountain into its present form, a horseshoe-shaped ring of peaks partly surrounding a glacial valley.
Humphreys Peak is a popular peak-bagger's destination, and during the summer and fall the summit is relatively easy to reach via the 4.2-mile Humphreys Peak Trail, which was built in 1984 and climbs 3,300 feet. To reach the trailhead, drive north out of Flagstaff on US 180 for 7 miles, then turn right on the Arizona Snowbowl Road and drive another 7 miles to the main lodge. The Humphreys Peak Trailhead is at the north end of the parking lot below the lodge. After crossing a meadow, the Humphreys Peak Trail climbs the west slopes of the mountain, switchbacking through a beautiful mix of quaking aspen, ponderosa pine, and Douglas fir.
As you ascend, Englemann spruce, limber pine, and Arizona corkbark fir take over the forest. Nearing timberline, the trail passes through a ragged, open forest of bristlecone pine. These tough trees live more than 1,000 years on the Peaks. Finally reaching the crest of the mountain at the 11,800-foot saddle between Agassiz and Humphreys peaks, the Humphreys Peak Trail meets the upper end of the Weatherford Trail. To continue the ascent, follow the Humphreys Peak Trail north as it first skirts the ridge crest to the west, then, leaving the last struggling trees behind, follows the main ridge north to the summit.
As you would expect, the views are tremendous. To the west, you can see the Hualapai Mountains near the Colorado River. To the north, the long slash of the Grand Canyon cuts through the high plateau. Northeast, the blue dome of Navajo Mountain stands above the slickrock deserts of southern Utah. Southeast, you can often see the rounded summits of the White Mountains, Arizona's second highest range, which are near the New Mexico border. And south, the Colorado Plateau abruptly ends at the Mogollon Rim, beyond which lie the mountains of the Sonoran Desert.
Because the mountain is so isolated, a number of plants grow here that are found nowhere else. One of these, a small flower called the San Francisco Peaks groundsel, grows only above timberline in the loose volcanic cinders, and is considered endangered. For that reason, summer travel on the Peaks is restricted to trails above 11,400 feet, the approximate timberline.
Although summer weather on the Peaks is often pleasant, thunderstorms are common during the late summer, and you don't want to be caught above timberline or on ridges during lightning. It's best to plan an ascent for early in the morning. Although high winds and snow can occur any time of the year, such winter conditions are most common from November through April. In the winter, climbing any of the peaks or skiing or snowshoeing the backcountry requires winter mountaineering skills, including knowledge of avalanche conditions. Agassiz Peak was the scene of Arizona's first avalanche fatality, involving a snowboarder. Others have lost their lives in winter storms, and the mountain should always be treated with respect. Winter travel requires a permit, available from the Forest Service.

Bruce Grubbs he is an active outdoor writer and and photographer with 20 books in print. His "day job" is flying air charters. Check out his web site at brucegrubbs.com.