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All Dressed Up With Ski Resorts To Go
FRESH TRACKS AND SPLURGES
Away from the resorts and off-the-beaten path
SAN JUAN HUT SYSTEM
Ridgway, CO
www.sanjuanhuts.com
970-626-3033
Forget the 10th Mountain Division. In the Mount Sneffels Range of the San Juan Mountains, five primo backcountry huts, maintained by San Juan Hut Systems, link Ouray and Telluride. Ski hut-to-hut, making side trips to steep slopes and powder stashes along the way, or spring off of Ridgway, Ouray or Telluride to access one hut and make it your base camp. The backcountry enclaves hold eight skiers and come stocked with a propane cook stove, propane lamp, wood stove, firewood and kitchen equipment. They are available for rent between December 1 and April 15 for $26 per person per night.
VALLES CALDERA NATIONAL PRESERVE
Jemez Springs, NM
www.vallescaldera.gov
866-382-5537
The magnitude of Valles Caldera, a gigantic volcanic crater in northern New Mexico, is hard to fathom. Until you realize that those tiny specks in the crater bottom aren’t little scrub bushes but bears and elk. Come winter, become a speck yourself by donning skis and cruising the three-mile wide valley, exploring wide meadows and Redondo Peak. The Valles Caldera Trust, which manages the 89,000-acre preserve, opened two backcountry yurts last year for skiers who wish to stay overnight. Enter a lottery for the right to a winter weekend at both yurts by mid-December. If you win, you’ll pay $180 per night for up to three nights and up to six people. You may stay at one yurt or both.
SKYWARD MOUNTAINEERING
Ridgway, CO
www.skywardmountaineering.com
970-209-2985
Mountaineer Vince Anderson’s exploits include expeditions on Shishapangma, Denali, and Mount Robson, and one of his most recent, an ascent of Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face in 2005, earned him and partner Steve House the prestigious Piolet d’Or prize, the alpinist equivalent of a Grammy. Happily for us Southwesterners, Anderson resides much of the year in Ridgway, Colorado, offering avalanche courses, ice climbing instruction, and backcountry ski tours. Head up to Red Mountain Pass to test your lungs at 11,000 feet, absorb tips, and follow Anderson down tight glades, wide-open meadows, steep chutes or whatever suits your fancy and the conditions. Day rates range from $325 for one person to $700 for four.
TELLURIDE HELITRAX
Telluride, CO
www.helitrax.com
866-435-4754
Don’t be fooled by those Canadians who think they have the monopoly on heli-assisted skiing. There are options nearer than you think: Telluride Helitrax offers heli tours of some of the San Juans’ most pristine powder slopes. Ski up to seven runs and 14,000 vertical feet. One day costs $945 per person, two days cost $1,840, and three days cost $2,680, including equipment, snacks, and dinner. Don’t want to part with that much cash? Shell out $250-$275 per person, depending on your group size, fly to the top of the Bear Creek Drainage, and do a single 4,300-foot descent to the back alleys of Telluride.
SOUTHWEST ADVENTURE GUIDES
Durango, CO
www.mtnguide.net
800-642-5389
This Durango, Colorado-based guide service offers private backcountry ski tours and avalanche classes throughout the season. Check out some of Colorado’s least-frequented slopes in the San Juans. You’ll choose from a menu of options, from Coal Bank and Molas passes to the steeps near Silverton. Guides cost $295 per day for one person plus $95 for each additional person. Three-day Level I avalanche courses, aimed toward skiers and snowboarders, will be offered January 13-15 and February 9-11.
— K.S.
This year's September snow raised the hopes of every powder hound within sniffing distance of the Southwest. Will this be a legendary year? Should we quit our jobs now? It's too soon to tell, but thankfully that doesn't stop the Four Corners' ski resorts from preparing for the best. Get ready to dust off the old boots and boards with this sneak preview of the season's offerings.
Flagstaff, AZ
928-779-1951
For years, for the Arizona Snowbowl, there has been no cheating when it comes to snow: It's as all-natural as it comes. But when snow is scarce, like last year, it's easy to see why they might consider snowmaking. This resort has been at odds with local Native Americans who would rather not see recycled water strewn on the slopes of this mountain, which they consider sacred. No news yet, but if a decision favorable to the resort is made this season, construction of a snowmaking infrastructure may start as early as spring. In the meantime, the resort au naturale has 32 trails, four lifts and a laid-back local feel. Adult passes cost $46, kids ages 8-12 and seniors cost $25; and folks over 70 or under age 8 ski free.
SKI SANTA FE
Santa Fe, NM
505-982-4429
A misinformation campaign propelled by savvy Santa Fe locals has helped Ski Santa Fe fly under the radar of many Rockies-bound out-of-state skiers. But this gritty mom-and-popper has a lot to pride itself on. With a base elevation of 10,350 feet, it's one of the highest ski resorts in the country; its powder is sweet dry champagne; and though you might be distracted by its family-centered base area, the glades and drops are hairy - and extremely fun. Plus, if the old belief that an abundant snow year follows a truly dismal one, Santa Fe is in for a doozy. Last season, after building a new triple chair on a portion of the mountain formerly only accessible by a long catwalk, there was never enough snow to open it. This year, skiers and snowboarders will inaugurate both the lift and the newly built Fun Park, where boxes, jumps and rails will taunt beginner and intermediate riders. (For the entertainment of the rest of us, the Fun Park is located center-stage on Broadway, directly under the main Quad chair.) The resort plans to open Thanksgiving Day and close April 8. Adult passes cost $51, teens cost $41, and children cost $37.
Silverton, CO
970-387-5706
Anytime it snows half a lick in the Four Corners area, it's a safe bet that Silverton Mountain has twice what's outside your front door. This year, skiers were chasing face shots on September 22. Until last April, however, this pow was reserved for only 80 smug skiers a day, who reserved spots with a requisite guide well in advance. Now, to the elation of Silverton's powder-hungry, extreme-skiing followers - the resort's easiest run has a pitch of about 35 degrees - the resort is offering unguided skiing to as many as 475 skiers per day Thanksgiving-January 14 and April 5-29. Plus, this season, 164 acres of new terrain will include Vodka Shots, a series of chutes named for Vodka labels that co-owner Jenny Brill calls "pretty exciting" - read: thrilling or terrifying, depending on your perspective. Silverton will hold two to four boot-packing days early in the season (to be announced after press time) for people who would like to earn free tickets. The mountain will also hold The Beating: An Amateur Ski and Snowboard Film Festival at the Miner's Union Theater in Silverton Dec. 2. The series of amateur ski flicks will raise money for the resort's kids' programs. Silverton will be open Thursday through Sunday between November 23 and April 29. Unguided day passes cost $49 and guided day passes cost $99-$129. G Cards, which allow you to buy unlimited $39 tickets, will be on sale throughout the season starting at $29.
Angel Fire, NM
800-633-7463
Thirty-nine might seem like a good age to stay at forever, but consider turning 40 this year. Angel Fire Resort is turning 40, and if you're 40 too, you'll ski free. This birthday gift is only part of its season-long birthday celebration, which will include road-trip incentives, special lesson and equipment rentals, "throwback" pricing, and group reunion packages. This family-friendly area, located in the northeastern corner of New Mexico, is also making improvements to the Lowrider Park, a freestyle free-for-all, and will open new gladed terrain. This year's annual Benefit Day will take place on December 14. Adult tickets cost $52 and kids tickets cost $40; Seniors 70 or older and children 6 or younger ski free.
Pagosa Springs, CO
970-264-5639
Renowned for its shocking amount of snowfall - an average of 465 inches annually - but located in a remote nook of Colorado, Wolf Creek is a well-guarded golden kingdom of powder. No big developments or high-rise condos mar the skyline; just seven lifts, 1,604 vertical feet and 1,600 skiable acres attract its devotees. This year, the resort will run all of its lifts on wind power and purchase all of its energy from a green-power supplier. A new detachable quad has replaced the old Raven double chairlift, which will help free up congestion in the base area. And to celebrate the 30th birthday of Nordic skiing in the Alberta Park area, the resort will hold a swarm of cross-country-skiing events, from games and races to demos and clinics. Wolf Creek plans to open November 3 and close April 8. Tickets cost $46 for adults and $25 for children and seniors. On Local Appreciation Days - look online for dates throughout the season - they cost $25 for adults, and on College Days, college students get $25 tickets with a valid college ID.
TELLURIDE SKI RESORT
Telluride, CO
970-728-6900
With about 1,700 acres of skiable terrain, 84 trails, 16 lifts, and two boutique- and bar-packed villages, Telluride is one of the Southwest's biggest resorts. Here, everyone from cousin Bobbie Sue to Aunt Roxanne can entertain themselves, whether it's ogling the views from See Forever, bopping through glades in Prospect Bowl, or hitting the bumps on Electra. Don't be surprised if you spot Jonny Moseley cruising the double blacks: After his wedding on the top of the mountain last season, the gold medalist and Olympian will become the resort's new ambassador of skiing. Telluride will also hold three women's ski clinics - January 25-27, February 11-15 and February 26-March 2 - and several free-skiing events, including the Subaru US Freeskiing Open February 8-11 and the Rocky Mountain Freestyle Divisional Championships March 1-4. The resort will open November 23 and close April 8. Day passes cost $79 for adults, $47 for kids, and $58 for seniors, but prices are cheaper before December 17 or if you buy at least seven days head online.
Hesperus, CO
970-259-3711
Sick of high-speed six packs, adrenaline-junkie terrain parks and crammed slopes? Ski Hesperus harkens back to the good old days when boards were straight, lifts were a luxury and skiing was pure, hype-free fun. But don't take that to mean the skiing isn't worth it at this local's hill, located 15 minutes west of Durango. Assuming there's more snow than last year - the resort doesn't make snow - Ski Hesperus is the perfect no-hassle post-work or weekend fix. This hill lights 80% of its terrain, has 1,000 feet of vertical, and runs two lifts for riding into the evening hours. This season, full-day tickets cost $30 and a night pass, good between 4:30 and 9, costs $24. The area opens at 4:30 pm on weekdays and at 9 am on weekends and holidays; it closes at 9 pm every day.
Salida, CO
888-996-7669
Monarch Mountain has a lot going for it: short lift lines, a wide variety of terrain, 350 inches of snow annually and two terrain parks, to name a few. But this year, the area, located 20 miles from Salida, Colo., is stepping it up a notch with $1 million in improvements, including a new Magic Carpet surface lift and a new building at the base area. The latter will house a ski school and a rental shop, which will be stocked with spanking-new gear, including high-performance skis, telemark skis and snowboards. Monarch also offers snowcat tours and 130 acres of extreme backcountry terrain, accessed by a 15-minute hike from the Breezeway lift. Its season pass (from $279 for adults), includes free and half-price days at five other ski areas in the southwest. Adult tickets cost $49, teens cost $31, seniors cost $26 and juniors cost $19. Between opening day, November 22, and December 15, tickets are drastically discounted: Adults cost $27 and teens, juniors and seniors cost less.
Taos, NM
866-968-7386
While riding the lazy, winding road up to Taos Ski Valley from the eponymous mountain-hippie burg, you might get the impression you're headed for a pleasant little haven in the woods. Wrong. At the end of this road lies the point of no return: a ferocious, all-consuming, thoroughly addicting extreme-skiing honey hole. Complete with plenty of grizzled tele skiers, Taos is as pure as it gets; it even continues to stubbornly hold on to its no-snowboarder policy. This year, the resort has a 20% greater snowmaking capacity, summer crews widened several trails, and 11 new ski-in/ski-out condos will open in time for the holidays. Taos hosts a multitude of events, many of them involving booze and music. One standout is the Taos Winter Wine Festival, which includes tastings, dinners, and seminars and will be held January 17-28. Between Thanksgiving and December 15, tickets cost $25. Normally, adult day passes cost $59, teens cost $46 and kids cost $36.
Durango, CO
800-982-6103
Get ready to see some changes at DMR, located half an hour north of Durango. This season, Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort will begin the first phase of a $100-million makeover of the resort's village and base area. A new Mountain Adventure Center, which will include lift-ticket sales, a rental shop, ski school, retail shops and - thank God! - a day spa and salon, will be completed for the 2007-2008 season. Purgy's day lodge will also be revamped, with fire pits, a covered deck, and an outdoor bar area. DMR has a slew of fun events: This season, the must-attend winter festival of Snowdown will take place January 31-February 4. Also consider the International Skibike Festival February 21-25, which features races, big-air competitions, lessons and free demos. Opening day is November 23. Adult tickets cost $59, children cost $31, students and seniors cost $43, and if you're 70 or older, you'll fork over $19.
Crested Butte, CO
800-544-8448
Tucked in the Elk Mountain Range of southwestern Colorado, Crested Butte seems blissfully off-the-beaten path. But if owners Tim and Diane Mueller have anything to say about it, a five-year $80-million renovation will attract skiers by the flock and make that path considerably more stomped. This year, improvements include a new high-speed quad, which replaces the East River Lift and offers better access to intermediate skiing, better snowmaking, a new rental fleet, and the completion of the first phase of the Mountaineer Square base-area developments. Next season, you'll see a new lodge at the top of the Red Lady Express Lift. This steep-and-deep gem is known for its extreme skiing: This year, the U.S. Extreme Freeskiing Champsionships will be held February 20-24 and the U.S. Freeskiing Telemark Championships will be held March 22-24. The resort will be open November 18 through April 8. During holidays and the high season, adult tickets cost $74; passes for kids ages 13-17 cost $56; and children 7-12 cost $37. Tickets are substantially cheaper before December 15.
Red River, NM
505-754-2223
Haven't overcome your fear of Taos? Start with the more user-friendly Red River Ski Area, located about 45 minutes north. You'll find plenty of cruisers and glades and a no-hassle, family-friendly atmosphere. In fact, Red River prides itself on being small and safe enough for children to ski solo. Plus, most all of the town's lodging is within a skip of the lifts. This year, the resort has beefed up snowmaking in preparation for its November 22 opening date. Mardi Gras in the Mountains, which features live music, balls, parades, costume contests, drink-making contests and plenty of crawfish, will be held March 15-20. Adult day passes cost $53, teens cost $47 and seniors and children ages 4-12 cost $38. During College Days, January 1-16, the resort offers $25 tickets to students with valid college IDs.
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