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Climbing Vestal Peak: Wham Ridge

By Dan Steaves

Getting Started

APPROACH AND ROUTE BETA: Start at Molas Lake (approx. 1 mile north of Molas Pass) and descend the switchbacks to the Animas River. Cross the bridge and hike up Elk Creek for about four miles to the beaver ponds. Follow the steep trail up Vestal Creek to Vestal lake, which is located at the base of the Wham Ridge. Scramble up the center of the face, trending right. When the slope steepens, stay on the ridge proper. From the summit, hike to the Trinity Peaks saddle (east), then descend to the lake. Scrambling involved.

The Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak is a super-classic alpine rock climb in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado. At 13,864 feet elevation, Vestal does not share the glitz of a fourteener but it remains a beautiful summit for remote adventure - and a lot less crowded than the big ones.

Vestal Peak is located in the Grenadier Range in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, with no easy access to this remote section of the Weminuche Wilderness, the largest wilderness area in the state.

To get to the start of Wham Ridge, some 30 switchbacks descend from Molas Pass to the Animas River where the trail begins a gentle ascent for about 4 miles. From there the trail ascends steep, log-choked, lung-bustin' terrain for another 4 miles or so to Vestal Lake.

The rewards come soon enough though, with a 1,500-foot climb on solid quartzite (a rarity in the San Juans) up Wham Ridge, a sweeping face that just gets steeper and steeper, culminating at the pyramid-like summit. Many possibilities exist for routes up the face, with the easiest route following the right side of the ridge. The path of least resistance on the Wham requires climbing in the 5.4 - 5.6 range. Confident skilled climbers may not require a rope, considering that climbing shoes and perhaps a chalkbag are enough "gear." For the novice or faint of heart, however, a rope, harness, small rack and helmet is necessary to safely gain the summit.

A 360-degree view of an array of peaks, valleys and alpine lakes await at the summit. "A land of endless mountains," as one guidebook author puts it, is an accurate depiction of the view from the top. On a clear day, visible are the La Plata Mountains to the southwest, the Needles Range due south, the Wilsons far to the northwest, and the Red mountains to the north.

There are many options for climbing the Wham Ridge, all depending on gear needs. If going solo isn't your thing, backpacking in with a rope, climbing gear, food and bivy gear is necessary. This style of ascent will require two to three days. Another option would be to backpack to the beaver ponds, where Vestal Creek meets Elk Creek, camp, hike the four miles or so to the Wham, climb to the summit and descend to camp. Another option, and in my opinion the ultimate way to climb the Wham Ridge, is the day trip, which amounts to about 25 miles of hiking and nearly 5,000 feet of elevation gain!

Weather considerations, especially during the monsoon season, require a very early start to avoid getting caught in a thunderstorm. To get caught on the Wham Ridge during one would be treacherous and downright horrifying. The quartzite rock becomes slippery when wet and the risk of getting struck by lighting is high. Climbing the Wham Ridge in the fall, after the monsoon season, can be the best time (depending on the year, of course). The weather is commonly more stable, nice and cool, and the summer travelers are gone. As a bonus, nearly all the snow has melted from the gullies, i.e., the descent route(s).

One of the many joys in climbing the Wham Ridge is the quality of the rock; it's solid. Elsewhere in the San Juans the rock can be suspect to climb on, but the Grenadier Range has excellent-quality rock for aesthetic and clean mountaineering and alpine rock-climbing.

For added kicks to a mountaineering adventure, combine Arrow Peak, Wham Ridge and the Trinity Peaks traverse for a total of five classic San Juan Peaks.

On any trip in the backcountry, remember to leave no trace; pack it in, and pack it out. The alpine environment is a fragile one, and misuse and abuse of the land leaves lasting marks. Remember to get a Colorado Search and Rescue Card before your backcountry adventure (sold at most sporting goods stores); the $3 is well worth it. Should Search and Rescue need to come get you, having the card means you are not liable for the rescue costs, including helicopter transport.

Dan Steaves lives in Durango but really lives where the rivers flow strong, the mountains rise steep and the snow falls deep.