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Salida, Colorado

For better or worse, this town's secret is out

story by Erinn Morgan ?��photos by Darren Croke

OVER THE RIVER

A ride from Salida along the Arkansas River through the winding Bighorn Sheep Canyon (via kayak, raft or car) will reveal where the artist team of Christo and Jeanne-Claude is posturing to set up Over the River, their next installation here. Their proposed project is a temporary two-week installation of eight sections of translucent fabric panels over the river from Salida to Cañon City. Sound intriguing?
The only problem is that not everyone is welcoming these famed artists and their grand plan. A local opposition organization call Rags Over the River (ROAR) has been formed to combat the idea. Concerns range from wildlife impacts to road congestion.
But with millions of dollars invested already, Christo and Jeanne-Claude have even gone so far as to pay for an Environmental Impact Statement, a novel-length document that is being reviewed by the Bureau of Land Management.
If the proper permits are issued, work will begin on the site in 2009, with a projected opening date in the summer of 2012. It is a lengthy process - rife with controversy - to realize a grand-scale artist's dream.
If their names are not familiar, you may, instead, recall some of their grandiose artwork. The Gates in New York's Central Park, put up in 2005, is one of Christo and Jeanne-Claude's more recent art projects. It combined more than 5,000 tons of steel, 315,000 linear feet of vinyl tubes, and more than a million square feet of saffron-colored, recyclable, rip-stop fabric to create “gates” that were erected throughout Central Park for 16 much-talked-about days.
This art duo's designs extend way beyond urban locales; in 1972, the couple erected a “Valley Curtain” that hung between mooring points at Rifle Gap in the Grand Hogback Mountain Range in Rifle, Colo. This 1,250 feet curtain hung 365 feet high over the gap and the road that passed through it. Mother Nature had her say with wind gusts in excess of 60 mph that forced the removal of this art installation.
The two artists' designs on the Arkansas River would involve 962 panels of fabric that would cover approximately six miles of this 40-mile stretch of the river; the length of the sections will be broken up by bridges, rocks, trees, and other fixed items for aesthetic reasons - and to allow a flow of light along the way. The panels would be draped eight to 25 feet above the water and supported by steel cables. For more information, check out the artists' website www.christojeanneclaude.net .

At first glance, it looks like the quintessential "undiscovered" mountain town. There is just one stoplight in downtown Salida. Land just outside town is only $40,000 an acre. And the landscape, replete with towering Fourteeners, is uncluttered by the usual urban trappings of man.

But take a deeper look and, at the right time of year, you'll find cafes and pizza parlors teeming with tourists and trails populated by both locals and outdoorsy Denver weekend defectors. For better or worse, so it seems, Salida's secret is out.

On the verge and yet still seemingly naive, this town is steeped in its own ways and ever-so-slowly and reluctantly embracing modernity. The evidence is in the development of a trove of hip shops, bars and caf�s that belie this enclave's unsophisticated railroad and mining town history.

The downtown district is quaint and peppered with unique art galleries, whimsical caf�s and outdoor outfitters. Looking around, it seems that the imaginative, experimental side of Salida is reminiscent of the irreverent nature of Austin, Texas.

The charm of this outdoor town is what draws visitors and urban emigrants alike. The growing popularity of Salida is undeniable on a recent visit during a summer holiday weekend.

The line at Bongo Billy's coffee shop is out the door. The sprawling, grassy park in the center of town is bustling. Nearby, one outdoor retailer has moved matters outside with a sprawling sidewalk sale.

Even the water is frothing with kayakers rolling and flipping in the town's whitewater park - plus rafters putting in and taking out. This is just one stop along the 18-plus-mile, Class II-IV stretch of the Arkansas River, which is a world-class playground for water-logged thrill-seekers. On this idyllic summer day, the tiny town of Salida (population 5,500) is zipping.

The fury of holiday activity doesn't seem to keep the locals indoors (or out of town altogether). Those Salidans walking about town are an eclectic mix. There is the woman working at Amicas Pizza & Brewery who moved here from Durango two years ago for lower home prices (the locals, she said, told her she was too late - the prices were already through the roof).

Then there is the long-time local walking his 7-week-old puppy - he says Salida is the best place to raise his 7- and 9-year-old children.

Passing through an alleyway, there is the kayak guide getting ready to dump his boat in the icy runoff waters located a scant few hundred feet away from his more-than-humble abode. His home is one of the small attached, side-by side apartments that are, as a whole, accessorized with kayaks and paddles of all sizes and colors.

No doubt, Salida has a decidedly laid-back feel, even with all the mayhem of the weekend taking its toll. Still, if you came to get away from it all, you may end up wondering how all these other people found the Promised Land.

THE DRAW: WATER

Certainly, the press has been kind to Salida. Numerous national and regional write-ups have brought this quiet spot, located at the base of Colorado's Sawatch Range and Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area, into the collective consciousness.

Still, the media attention aside, this town's merits speak for themselves. Tourists are drawn for the cool mountain air, epic trails, eclectic culture and the legendary Arkansas' waters.

The Arkansas was a key trade route for the native Ute Indians and a passageway for explorers, trappers and miners. It actually once served as the dividing line between the U.S. and Mexico.

This river, which terminates when it meets the Mississippi in Arkansas, is born from the snow- and ice-melt of the Rockies and the headwaters lie in the area from Leadville through Salida to Ca�on City. In this Headwaters Recreation Area, the powerful Arkansas descends 4,600 feet in 148 miles, a formula that equates to some of the best kayaking and rafting conditions in the world.

The range of Class II to V rapids deliver conditions from rolling fun to daunting waves - the area draws upwards of 300,000 water lovers each year looking to get a taste of the Arkansas. As a result, kayak and raft outfitters are abundant in Salida, and the town itself lights up with activity once the cold waters begin to flow higher in the spring.

A highlight of the season is the long-running annual Blue Paddle FIBArk Whitewater Festival, a huge celebration of all things river that draws crowds in excess of 25,000 people. 2008 will mark the 60th FIBArk, which stands for First in Boating the Arkansas River. The festival's roots lie in a bet between two boaters who, nearly 60 years ago, laid down a competition to settle who could paddle the 56 miles from Salida to Ca�on City the fastest.

Today, a 26-mile race from Salida to Cotopaxi, pays homage to the founders of the FIBArk. Other competitions include freestyle kayaking, boatercross, a raft rodeo and slalom races. Even landlubbers can get some action at the festival, which also features trail and road running, skateboarding, and cycling competitions. Spectator-friendly events are also in play, like the Hooligan Race, a demolition derby of sorts featuring homemade river rigs, and the Crazy River Dog, which tests the fetching mettle of competitive canines.

With all the attention to water-based activities in Salida, it is no wonder the town invested a few years ago in a centrally located whitewater park in the downtown area, which features two playholes for kayakers located on either side of the F Street Bridge. The city has even posted a website with river flow and weather information, plus a live webcam picture: www.arkpaddler.com.

THE DRAW: DIRT

The rough and rugged Rockies terrain that flanks Salida attracts scores of bikers, hikers and climbers from all over the world. It is the perfect proving ground for world-class competitions such as the Adventure XStream and the Banana Belt Mountain Bike Fest.

The local showstopper is the Monarch Crest Trail, a wildly popular mountain bike route (currently in danger of partial closure via a proposed, new Forest Service plan for the Continental Divide Trail) that tops out at an impressive 12,000 feet. The prescribed route begins at Monarch Pass via a shuttle from Poncha Springs, (a few miles from Salida) and stretches a full 30 miles.

The pain is worth the gain as tight, delightful singletrack rolls through the splendor of the high country. The trail descends a total of 4,250 feet, but it also climbs 3,589, so pack food, extra water and rain gear. The ride links the Crest Trail with sections of the Colorado and Continental Divide trails, plus the wildly undulating Rainbow Trail.

While the Monarch Crest is best tackled after the snow melts (July through early September), Salida's Banana Belt location ensures riding down near town about 10 glorious months out of the year. Singletrack is abundant; check with local bike shops (like the quirky Absolute Bikes) for trail maps and info.

Since 15 of Colorado's Fourteeners sit side-by-side here in the Sawatch Range, hikers and backpackers are also smitten with the area. As such, peak bagging is a popular pastime. Sections of the legendary Continental Divide Trail, as well as the Colorado Trail, meander through the area. A bucolic escape from the everyday grind is also served up in the area's four federally designated wilderness areas: Buffalo Peaks, Mount Massive, Collegiate Peaks, and Sangre de Cristo.

In the winter, everything turns into a backcountry skier's paradise. Those inclined to luxuriate in lift service can take to the hill at nearby Monarch Mountain. This ski area boasts 350-plus inches of natural snow a year, 1,570 skiable acres, minimal crowds, reasonable prices and a summit elevation of 11,961. The boon here is that, during most months of the year, skiers and riders can take to the groomers in the morning and head back to Salida for biking or hiking in the afternoon, all thanks to elevation and this town's key Banana Belt climate.

THE DRAW: CULTURE

Those who come for the outdoors are undoubtedly surprised by Salida's artistic side. With an impressive roster of nationally and internationally acclaimed artists calling this valley home, the bar has been set for culture in Salida - it is no wonder it is noted as a significant artist's community. True to form, a walk downtown reveals a huge number of art galleries, from the funky Green Cat (featuring sculpture and glass work) to the playful Bungled Jungle (a forest of creative "creatures" for sale).

But the culture here extends beyond the pure form and into other areas like cuisine. One creative favorite is Laughing Ladies Restaurant, named after the off-color prostitutes of Salida's mining-and-railroad era. Inventive cuisine, from stuffed quail to decadent deserts, is the forte of owner Jeff Schweitzer. As such, foodies drive from far and wide to sample his fare.

Lodging options also border on the creative, with one standout option being the old Chaffee County Poor Farm. Constructed in 1892, the original structure was restored nearly 100 years later, in 1983, as historical bed & breakfast. Operating today as the River Run Inn (www.riverruninn.com), the reminders of Salida's history are earmarked among the modern luxuries of a Victorian B&B.

For lodging, soaking, or both, Salida serves up a host of hot springs. Located a few miles north of Salida in Nathrop, Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort features its spectacular namesake as backdrop plus natural creek-side hot pools that warm the muscles into a state of bliss. For the luxury lover, the Antero Hot Springs Cabins feature solitude, private soaking pools, renovated historic cabins and prices from $200 to $250.

Even downtown Salida boasts its own Hot Springs Aquatic Center, which is perfect for kids and lap-swimming adults.

The Great Outdoors and hot springs retreats offer a respite from the newly bustling character of Salida. No doubt, the key here is to look to Mother Nature for the mental getaway you may need - and dive into the heart of Salida for the art, culture, cuisine, and energy of a burgeoning mountain town.

Erinn Morgan is a Durango-based freelance writer whose work has appeared in many magazines, including National Geographic Adventure, Bike, Skiing, Muscle & Fitness and 5280.