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Breathless in The Jeeping Capital of the World

Traveling Ouray's Historic Jeep Trails

By Patricia Poulin

Traveling The High Routes

Imogene Pass

For 23 years, Ouray has played host to the Jeep Jamboree USA, which, in addition to the camaraderie and fun, promotes responsible Jeeping to assure that the area and its trails will remain enjoyable for generations to come. (Sept 16 - 18, http://jeepjamboreeusa.com/trips/itinerary/ouray.pdf)

Jeep Jamboree USA

Rated as "extreme," this rugged, narrow trail starts from U.S. Hwy. 550 just past the summit of Red Mountain and travels rugged terrain into Telluride and offers an up-close view of Bridal Veil Falls.

Black Bear Pass

Originally established as an early supply route from Ouray to Telluride, Last Dollar Road is one of the area’s easier trails. With a few steep sections, the route traverses thick aspen forests and features scenic views of San Miguel Canyon.

Last Dollar Road

Once a wagon road, Ophir Pass connected the towns of Ophir, Telluride and Silverton during the mining town era. Its high point is at 11,789 feet elevation.

Ophir Pass

One of the most popular trails in Ouray County, Yankee Boy Basin follows a scenic trail that ends in the basin just below Mt. Sneffels.

Yankee Boy Basin

Ranking right up there in difficulty with Black Bear Pass, Imogene Pass traverses a steep and rocky pass reaching 13,144 feet.

As the morning sun crested over the nearby mountains, I watched visitors filter in and out of the several jeep tour establishments that line 7th Avenue in downtown Ouray, Colo. In minutes I felt well-traveled, hearing German, French and Spanish fill the morning air.

Since early 1959, Ouray has played host to four-wheeling aficionados and newcomers from across the globe. Today, I was officially becoming a part of the tradition as I sat upon the wooden bench outside of Colorado's very first Jeep tour company, San Juan Scenic Tours. While Jeeping remains one of the city's premier attractions, this economic booster came about by mere fate. Established in 1870s as a mining town, Ouray developed into one of three major supply hubs for the booming high-altitude mining operations; the other two are Silverton and Telluride. With mountain passes that hover around 13,000 feet elevation and precipitous gorges below, developing roads for transporting goods became a long and daunting feat.

Lucky for modern-day Ouray and its visitors, the pioneers of these hair-raising roads were successful in creating an interconnecting labyrinth of trails. They were so successful, in fact, that these trails have morphed modern-day Ouray into the "Jeeping Capital of the World." While this designation may sound far-fetched, after traveling even a portion of the 500 miles of off-road trails that traverse sheer mountainsides and wind through alpine meadows, it is easy to become a believer.

Thoughts of the mule-drawn wagons riding into town carrying supplies after facing death square in the eyes where they passed over Imogene Pass filtered through my mind. I wondered if these brave souls knew that they were making history by carving across the San Juan Mountains. As an appreciator of travel executed by the power of my own two feet, I had never considered reaching a high point via mechanized vehicle, and although I often dismissed its probable adventure, I was nonetheless intrigued.

Excited voices grew, coming closer to my bench. Six people, of all ages, began to linger near the queue of Jeeps. While many of the Jeeping companies offer guests the rental of a Wrangler to head off to the trails on their own, those looking to just enjoy the ride can take a full or half-day tour aboard an open-air truck that has been converted into a powerful four-wheeling machine. Besides relieving the stress of driving, a tour offers guests the opportunity to step back into time. Most guides double as a walking encyclopedia, savvy to the natural and social history of the area.

As we formed into single file to board our ride into the mountains, a converted Dodge Ram, our guide introduce himself and we settled into our seats. I began to hear whispers of trip experiences and death-defying stories, gripping tales that originated from atop the narrowest and highest passes. I learned that I was the only virgin Jeeper stepping aboard for the day.

There is no apparent lack of tours offered by the Jeeping companies; from the steep terrain into Yankee Boy Basin to the all-day trek over Black Bear Pass into the town of Telluride. You could spend a week taking a different tour each day and still have not seen all that there is to see. Today, though, our group was in for a special treat. With most of the high passes closed due to snow, our fearless leader was determined to get us high into the mountains - and Red Mountain 3 was the place to be. Strapped in and bundled up, we headed south toward Red Mountain Pass. As we traveled 13 miles to the turnoff on U.S. Highway 550 - at one time a bumpy and rock-ridden dirt road - the twists and turns - on the right side, the slope dives deep into the dramatic Uncompahgre Gorge and has no guardrail - determined quickly the nervous passengers from the old hands.

Passengers gasped as they quietly slid across seats away from the side that peered deep into the gorge. Passing through aspen forest and past cascading waterfalls, deep-red colored mountains towered above our vehicle. About a quarter-mile south of Red Mountain Pass, we cruised by turnoffs to multiple four-wheel-drive roads, one leading over Black Bear Pass and another leading into the remains of Red Mountain City. We turned east on a recently graded dirt road that turns into private property in about a half mile. Accessible only by permitted guide, the journey to the top of Red Mountain 3 became even more anomalous.

As we neared the gate, with the sun-kissed mountain standing tall before us, I noticed the color coming back to the knuckles of my fellow passengers. From the back seat, sounds of giggling. Crossing the threshold to the 12,800-foot tower of red, orange and yellow at the top of the road, our guide warned us that the road ahead may have us squirming in our seats, but to fear not as the breath we will be holding will be taken away quickly upon summiting. Patches of snow nearby and on neighboring peaks combined with bright blue sky and greening grass produced a remarkable kaleidoscope of color.

The road turned quickly from mud to red clay. Sloping green meadows spanned outward but were stopped abruptly by dramatic breaks in elevation. As if choreographed, three men broke into a chorus from "The Sound of Music" and laughter overtook the Jeep. Then, a switchback, the first of many en route to our destination. The brave warriors that were once shrugging fear of the gorge along the highway were again shifting across the seats to get as far away from the cliff side of the truck as they could. I looked outward, not down. Our talented guide steadied the rig up the steep and rocky trail while performing three-point turns around each of the tight switchbacks.

As we neared the top, the road had been cleared of snow, leaving towering sidewalls of the stuff. The crew, quiet until now, slowly bounced back to life as we neared the top. That was until our guide began to drive the Jeep in reverse. With a few feet of snow still clinging to the summit, there was no other way of turning around but to back up to a wide spot. Knuckles turned white once again. Stepping out of the Jeep after nearly two hours in the Jeep, I turned circles as I attempted to soak up the 360-degree view. Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre mountains stood proud to the north and Vestal to the south in a sea of peaks and valleys. The experience struck each of us similarly, leaving us speechless for a few minutes.

At our halfway point - with our return trip ahead of us - I was beginning to understand why the San Juan Mountains, and Ouray in particular, has become such a focal point for Jeeping enthusiasts. Beyond the spectacular views, the area offers a challenge for drivers of any skill level while offering them and passengers a sense of backcountry adventure and a reconnection with a fascinating and turbulent history.

Patricia Poulin is a restless wanderer currently roaming the San Juan Mountains (backcountryvagabond.com).