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Enchanted in El Rito
Sport climbing on walls and blocks of cobble-packed rocks
GETTING STARTED
WHERE El Rito is located about 12 miles northeast of Abiquiu, N.M., off U.S. Highway 84. From Abiquiu, take N.M. Highway 554 about 12 miles to El Rito. From El Rito, take Forest Service Road 44 for 3.75 miles and park at the spur.
CAMPING GEAR CLIMBING
The Carson National Forest is a 1.5 million-acre chunk of New Mexico composed of rolling mountain pines and endless sunset vistas. Volcanic activity in the Jemez Mountains left behind layers of ash and globs of conglomerate rock strewn about, creating a unique desert landscape that meets in stark contrast with the dense forest. This merging of mountains and deserts sets the stage for the historic Spanish settlement of El Rito.
A short drive north from El Rito into the Carson National Forest, we settled into camp near El Rito Creek. Although we had acres to ourselves, a resident rattler kept us tip toeing around a certain bush. "There's lots of those around," cautioned one local.
The climbing at El Rito is enjoyable, with lots of cobble pulling and pocket pinching. Much of the rock is coated with lichens colored of bright oranges and greens that glow in the soft afternoon light. Trails lead from one wall to another, and a few belays have handmade ledges or benches where a belayer can avoid slipping on a 40-degree slope.
With focus set on the area's classic routes, we went right for the tall stuff. Super Slab Wall holds a mix of cool 90-feet climbs (5.8 to 5.11) with strange moves and exciting clips, especially in New Mexico high winds. The short and fun cruisers on the Schoolhouse Slab kept us warm and in sun on a cool morning. A tall, shiny bolted route around the corner from the Radwall - which is not published in any of our guidebooks - had us shouting sweet praises as we hooked our fingers and pocket-pulled into the afternoon.
My partner, Bee, had her eye on a delicate 60-foot arête on the Pirate's Wall. At 5.9, Scurvydog isn't super difficult but just looking at it was intimidating. It appeared run-out with an overhanging crux about 50 feet off the ground. Undaunted, Bee geared up, tied in and with finesse nailed every move, clipping every bolt and solving each problem she encountered. For me, the route felt nearly as hard as the 5.10d I had just led on Ed Woody Wall called Redline. It provided plenty of the freaked panic I crave when the need to find a clip gets desperate. Bolt lines at El Rito can be a bit spaced out, making for good adventure when lead-climbing tricky terrain.
The Balcony Wall provided us with solid 5.10s, and in a warm place to climb. The stirring Tall Pine Wall felt akin to climbing a deep-orange drive-in theater screen. I grunted and moaned up the El Rito classic Cobble Wobble, 5.10d. A high crux had me stumped, but with a good tail wind I managed to hang on.
"It's good climbing," said Kevin Jones, an El Rito regular from Santa Fe, "and it's on different rock." Jones, who roams the state to climb, says that it's one of the most scenic cragging areas in the state, and it's only busy on certain weekends. "There's nobody here," he said. "We're surprised to see you." Rachel Ellis, also of Santa Fe, says she enjoys the serenity of the area. "For me, it's the remoteness, the beauty of northern New Mexico."
On our final climb of the day, a yellow-orange 5.10b called Evil Medical School - a route that rises above a beautiful forested hillside - our hands had grown desperate with fatigue and our bellies growled with hunger. But, we were reluctant to leave. "Next time, we're staying longer," announced Bee.
Climbing El Rito rock is as good it gets with regard to beautiful camping and incredible sport climbing. Located in a remote area of the Four Corners, with breathtaking landscapes, quiet mountains, and the best chili in the world just a short drive away in several directions, we departed the place feeling warmed over with what this state has a lot of: enchantment.
We'd be back.
Brandon Mathis is looking to Arizona and Jacks Canyon for his next report. He writes from Durango, Colo.
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