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The Jordan Hot Springs

Travels into the Depths of the Gila Wilderness

By Patricia Poulin

Just north of Silver City, N.M., across forested ridgelines and reachable by State Highway 15, lays the mystical Gila Wilderness, a pristine wild that beckons the souls of solitude seekers. Designated as the first wilderness area in 1924, this mystical land remains a sought-after destination for both backpackers and day hikers. From the open grasslands to the sheer cliff walls and iconic rock towers, a journey into this land of elusive Mexican gray wolves and black-nosed coati is not unlike an adventure back into time.
After only dreaming of the enchanting Gila Wilderness for many a day, my chance to experience it firsthand finally came to fruition in the form of an overnight backpacking trip. Known for hundreds of miles of trails that travel over rugged lands, the Gila is also a notable haven for hot spring soaking, most pools found only by traversing long ridgelines and descending into deep canyons. On a chilly December 31 morning, my hiking partner and I set out in search of one of the more popular thermal features within the Gila, Jordan Hot Springs. Although a popular destination during the warm summer months, this slice of heaven remains virtually untouched during the early spring, late fall, and for those adventurous at heart, why not escape reality in the middle of winter.
Accessible via two different routes, Trail #729 travels over six miles, travels through a slot canyon, and crosses the mighty Gila River 15 times, while the Middle Fork Trail adds two miles and crosses the river approximately 50 times. We opted for adventure, slot canyons and fewer river crossings. The trailhead for Trail #729, or Little Bear Canyon Trail, starts at T.J. Corral located just off the road to the Gila Cliff Dwellings and is ideal for staging and overnight parking.
After packing last-minute items, we set off by foot. The trail begins an ascent almost immediately, passing through high grassland and displaying sweeping views of distant mountains dusted with snow, making the red hues even more vibrant. Without a soul in sight, we reached the first trail junction where the path began to descend over several switchbacks into a sandy wash, which we hiked for two miles into Little Bear Canyon. Passing mature ponderosa pine trees and patches of snow, it was as if we were already far from the clutches of society after hiking only three miles into the wilderness.
The bright sun and blue sky that had joined us for our trip slowly disappeared as we traveled into sheer-wall slot canyon. Temperatures dropped, the walls drastically rose up toward a now barely visible sky, and my neck grew stiff from marveling at the rock columns and caves that closed in around us. Water trickled down the sandy wash, a cave loomed overhead; we crossed paths with an off-duty park ranger and his wife who were headed out of the canyon after spending the day down at the Middle Fork, looking as surprised as we did with the human encounter.
Just over four miles in, we stepped from the canyon and were greeted once again by blue sky and warm sunlight. Reaching the Middle Fork, the area presented a flat area shaded by giant cottonwoods, junipers, and whimsical spires reminiscent of southern Utah in color and grandeur. An ideal place for a rest, we unloaded our packs, picked up a snack and began to realize why we received a look of insanity from the ranger when we mentioned that we were Jordan Hot Springs-bound. When they say river crossings, they meant true river crossings, as there was no way of skirting the freezing water temperatures without getting wet. We had bare feet, flip-flops and pink legs for the remaining two miles. Luckily, the scenery improves and distracts from the sensation of near-frozen toes.
Attempting to avoid stumbling over our own feet or running into a tree, we took breaks to marvel the sky and to take in the visually striking hoodoos and balancing rocks that sit high above the canyon floor. The trail averages seven river crossings for each mile and travels into Jordan Canyon before finally reaching the unmarked, yet very fragrant, Jordan Hot Springs. Reaching the area shortly before dark and finding a campsite at least 400 feet away from water sources is easy to do as the area offers a number of sites spread throughout the canyon on both sides of the river. The semi-developed pools are located on the east side of the canyon and 50 feet above the river, offering a temperate 97-degree natural spring with a view and room enough for several soakers to enjoy. We brought in the new year with style as we defrosted our bodies in the hot spring and watched the blue moon rise, displaying larger-than-life shadows upon the canyon walls.

PATRICIA POULIN is a restless wanderer in search of great adventure within the wilds of North America (backcountryvagabond.com).

Wednesday, March 17, 2010
at 7:34:00 PM

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kendalljd says:

Excellent read... I definitely have a new destination to plan!